Ganbara
Go for the tomato salad, mushrooms with egg yolk, and barnacles when they have them — then order whatever else looks irresistible.
Her Second PourA Field Guide to What’s NextSubscribeThe Journey · A return-to guide
When in
San Sebastián…
Three visits in, and I still find something I somehow missed the time before.
I’ve been to San Sebastián three times, and every visit turns up another pintxos bar, another dish, another shop, another view. This isn’t an exhaustive guide. It’s simply the collection of places and things I’d tell a friend not to miss — so far.
Stay
Two I know.
One on my radar.
Hotel Maria Cristina
Posh, elegant and beautifully placed — and the bar is worth a stop even if you’re sleeping elsewhere.
Hotel Arbaso
A little more hip and vibey, with spacious rooms and amenities that are every bit as fabulous. A very different feel from Maria Cristina.
On my radar: Nobu Hotel San Sebastián . I haven’t stayed there yet, but the La Concha setting makes it one I’d consider next time.
Drink
Txakoli first.
Then follow your mood.
Txakoli. Anywhere.
Better yet, taste it at Gaintza in Getaria and see where it comes from.
House-aged vermouth
At Bar Roberto Berri.
Monkey 47 G&T
At the Maria Cristina bar.
And a Gilda.
Because this is San Sebastián.
Do pintxos
Stand at the bar. Order one thing. Move on.
Have a drink.
Eat something.
Repeat.
That’s the rhythm.
If you want an introduction, Mimo Bite the Experience does pintxos tours and cooking classes.
Bar Sport
Sea urchin cream and stuffed squid; spicy sausage if you’re still going.
La Cuchara de San Telmo
foie gras
Borda Berri
Idiazabal risotto · veal cheeks
Casa Urola
scallops · artichokes
Bar Néstor
peppers · chuletón
Gandarias
steak
Haizea
brick de bacalao · langoustines · Gilda
Artola
anything. Really.
A longer lunch. A special dinner.
When you want to sit down.
Two meals I’ve actually had — and three more worth knowing about.
See + do
Leave room for the city.
San Telmo Museum
Basque history and culture.
Monte Urgull
Walk up, see the castle, take in the view.
Catedral del Buen Pastor
Worth wandering by.
Monte Igueldo
Funicular, views and the old amusement park.
Peine del Viento
Chillida’s Comb of the Wind.
The beaches
La Concha, Ondarreta, Zurriola.
Gaintza Txakolina
Tasting + a look at winemaking.
Walk the Old Town
Then turn down the street you didn’t plan to.
Road trips + coastal detours
San Sebastián is easy to stay put in. Resist that for a day.
Getaria
Go for lunch at Elkano . Grilled fish is the point; the harbor and old town are the bonus.
Bilbao
Guggenheim · Casco Viejo · Mercado de la Ribera .
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
241 steps , wild coast — and the real-world setting used for Dragonstone in Game of Thrones.
Hondarribia → Biarritz
Honestly, anywhere along this coast. Drive slowly. Stop when something looks interesting. Let lunch happen.
Saint-Jean-de-Luz makes a very good stop.Shop
A few places to wander into.
Massimo Dutti · Sombrerería Leclercq · Abuztuaren 31 — cigars · Maria Cristina gift shop · Size One · Minimíl · Linda Moda
Some places you visit.
Some places make you start wondering when you can come back.